‘Down with America’ (Esfahan)

‘Down with America’ (Esfahan)

I woke excited about Quds Day (Jerusalem Day). In 1979, after the Islamic Revolution, Ayatollah Khomeini proclaimed the last Friday of every Ramazan to be a day of solidarity with the Palestinian people. Ipso facto a day of protest against Israel and the USA. Super religious and generally lesser educated Iranians gather in squares all […]

Read this article…
On Belay..The Cliff-Hanger..Piece Out

On Belay..The Cliff-Hanger..Piece Out

On my second last day in Iran, some locals and I hung out it Darakeh and checked out the Palaces in north Tehran.   On my final day in Iran, I went rock-climbing with some local friends and a German guy who could probably climb up a brick wall. It was a fantastic day and […]

Read this article…
Insane in the Brain Drain (Tehran)

Insane in the Brain Drain (Tehran)

I headed out for the day thinking I would hit a couple museums in the morning and call a local friend. The National Museum of Iran and Museum of the Islamic Period were closed for an official party. I had to settle for the close by Museum of Glassware and Ceramics. Not quite as exciting. […]

Read this article…
If the Ayatollah says it’s over, its over!

If the Ayatollah says it’s over, its over!

Note: I wrote this in Sept 2010 while still in Iran. While we were playing cards, news came over the television that Ayatollah Khameini had seen the crescent moon and that it was officially the end of Ramazan In Iran, its only the end of Ramazan when the Ayatollah says it is. Even if according […]

Read this article…
Persepolis – Partying Not Politics (Shiraz)

Persepolis – Partying Not Politics (Shiraz)

I head to Persepolis early in the morning on a locally organised tour. An Italian and two English speaking Iranian brothers from Tehran join me. Persepolis is actually known to Iranians as Takht-e Jamshid, Persepolis is the Greek name for the site given to it by Alexander the Great. We walked around the large set […]

Read this article…
Hooked by Students (Shiraz)

Hooked by Students (Shiraz)

I woke up early and caught the 8am bus to Shiraz. I listened to Bill Bryson’s A Short History of Nearly Everything on the way as, due to Ramazan, I am forbidden to listen to music during the day. In the afternoon I walk around mosques and bazaars until I meet a bunch of young […]

Read this article…
Towers of Silence & Houses of Strength (Yazd)

Towers of Silence & Houses of Strength (Yazd)

I headed out in the morning to do the ‘Yazd Walking Tour’ by myself. It was a crazy hot morning but it was nice to wander around the old mud city and get lost in its little alleys. In the afternoon, I went on a tour with an Italian couple, a guide and one of […]

Read this article…
‘The Yazd Desert Tour’

‘The Yazd Desert Tour’

We hit the road early, three Japanese travellers and I jumped in a car with a local tour guide. We were heading out for the ‘Yazd Desert Tour’. Our first stop was Kharanaq, a deserted mud brick village. We perused its many alleys and climbed onto the roofs of the crumbling houses. The weak mud […]

Read this article…
Carpet Hustle in The Square (Esfahan)

Carpet Hustle in The Square (Esfahan)

I met Ali, the guy I met the day before who introduced me to the philosophers, in front of Imam Mosque in Naghsh-e Jahan Square. Ali knew I was in the market for some carpets and he offered to help me. We walked around the square and visited many different carpet shops. Everywhere I asked […]

Read this article…
‘Not to be free, is like being dead’ (Esfahan)

‘Not to be free, is like being dead’ (Esfahan)

I hit the town in the early afternoon as the midday heat worn off. I walked down toward Naghsh-e Jahan Square (now know as Imam Square) and decided to do some shopping. I walked into a miniature workshop with the master painting in the front window and the students painting out the back. There were […]

Read this article…